Sunday, May 24: Strasbourg by boat and on foot

I woke up this AM thinking I’d be sure to be the first person in line for the Astrological Clock presentation. It was looking pretty gray and I wasn’t sure a boat tour in the rain would be fun… I meandered around the touristy shops and had my apple and fruit juice breakfast (aren’t you impressed??). At 11:30a, no one was in line yet (the doors open at 11:45), so I walked over and clear as day it says on the sign it’s no open on Sundays or holidays. Boo. So since I’m heading out around noon tomorrow, I won’t get to see it. Oh well, that leaves something to see next time.

Actually, I’ve noticed that Strasbourg really isn’t much more than a day trip and so it’s hard to stretch into a weekend. I grabbed an “early” lunch (noon) of gi-normous bratwurst and sauerkraut and had to get a pretzel just in case the restaurants would all be closed. It’s reeeaaally quiet on Sunday before noon here and often, Sunday is a closed day for restaurants/shops. I also stopped in a local bakery for an assortment of tiny spice cookies (one of the few local specialties I haven’t had yet).

Sat down at the closest shaded public bench to eat and seemed to magically wish away the clouds. At noon – almost exactly – the town woke up. Churches let out and tour guides started and the sun brought out whatever locals may have been tucked away in their apartments. The sun has been strong enough this afternoon to give me a bit more color than I would have asked for, so I’m grateful for the surprise of a sunny afternoon.

I figured sun meant the boat idea was back on. I got my ticket for the 1:30 covered boat. A covered boat means a poor shot at pics, but they’re airconditioned, which turned out to be necessary (and appreciated!). I’d already gotten a lot of pics on foot anyway, so the only one I indulged myself in was of my own reflection as we were waiting in the lift thingy for the water to fill in so we could head up to the higher water level. (more proof I’m actually here and not just googling the pics) The tour lasts about an hour and ten minutes and more than anything pointed out the cool buildings I hadn’t even seen in 2 days of walking around “old” Strasbourg (meaning anything encircled in the cities “4” rivers). So around 2:45 I climbed out of the boat, mapped out a walking route and headed back out by foot.

I stopped by the Palais de Justice and the red clay/brick church next to it (they said the name of the church on the audio guide, but it doesn’t list the church name on my map). Then walked through the shady park areas between that and la Republique and its square. Across the square is the National Library (also library for the nearby University) and Theatre National de Strasbourg, which has a healthy line-up for the year! For contrast, Theater League’s seasons were usually 5 week-long shows (nationals tours). I think the Rep usually has 6-8? They had 14! There are pics of all 5 buildings on Flickr.

Just down the road is a huge palace-looking building that I got a picture of, assuming it’d be important… it’s the regional headquarters for the Post Office. Yeesh, Union Square is nice, but come on… we can’t compete with that. (pics) I crossed over one of the many river-lettes, past St Paul’s church and had to take pics of it again. It just begs to be photographed and this time I was pretty close. (pics)

I walked another 4-5 blocks and was about to turn back, sure I had missed the entrance to the Botanical Garden, when I saw a baby sign and walked towards the entrance. I actually found better shots on the walk in than in the garden itself. It was pretty anticlimactic. Except for the frogs. Eeuuuuw! There is a “pond” there that is so covered in algae it looks like pesto and the frogs are almost as high in concentration. (pics)

I figured that after walking from one corner of Strasbourg to another, I was all set for my touristy quota for the day and am now back in the room where the bugs can’t bite me (yeesh) and planning on knocking out some chapters of The Book Of Love. If I read diligently, I may even be able to get it done in the next 2 days. I wasn’t planning on it before, but now I think I may make a day trip to Chartres (about an hour by train outside Paris) this next week, just to see the relics/symbolism mentioned in the book.

Tonight may be my last ‘traditional’ food item: tarte flammee (Flamm Kusch in the local language). Basically pizza toppings with no red sauce baked on a cracker crust instead of pizza dough. I figured after a whole pretzel and some spice cookies, I could lay off the thick bread foods for tonight.

Oh, but on the topic, last night I had Poulet au Riesling (alsacian) with Spaetzle (alsacian). The chicken was good; sauce was sort of a creamy mushroom sauce. Spaetzle and I aren’t really gonna be best friends. It was kinda shoestring potatoes meets spaghetti? Meh. But dessert was chocolate mousse and whoa. I seriously thought I’d met my match, gang. First off, it was the size of a bowl of cereal. Perfectly rich – not too sugary sweet but deeply intense dark chocolate flavor. The texture was something between really good fudge and chocolate frozen yogurt: velvety but dense. It took me 20 minutes and the better part of a pitcher of water, but I enjoyed every last bite of that mousse… *small bow*

Tomorrow I head back to Paris on a midday train and check into a darling hotel in the Marais district with free WiFi downstairs (score!).

Pics of Strasbourg by boat & foot on day 3 on Flickr.